Just south of Akumal on the Mexican Mayan Riviera is a popular swimming spot for both locals and visitors. With it’s blue, crystal clear water and eerie subterranean setting, Cenote Dos Ojos, otherwise known as the Two Eyed Cenote, is the perfect place to cool off on a hot day. If you’re a fan of surreal landscapes, underwater wonders, and a good dose of thrill, this gem is a must-add to your bucket list!
When planning your visit here, Cenote Dos Ojos is a half day excursion and likely to be part of a bigger day trip itinerary. Unless you are traveling in the hottest summer months, many people find the water a little cold to swim for extended periods so your mileage may vary. We came here for an early morning dip and although refreshing, it was chilly even by my Canadian standards!
WHAT ARE CENOTES?
Cenotes are natural pits in the ground caused by the collapse of bedrock, exposing groundwater beneath. There are tens of thousands of them in the Yucatan Peninsula and their history is deeply entwined with ancient Mayan culture, in which it was believed that cenotes are gates to the underworld. Many are open air, as the case is with Cenote Dos Ojos, however just as many remain underground with only minimal openings to the surface. They are freshwater and often part of larger cave systems. Cenote Dos Ojos is primarily known as a diving spot but swimmers and snorkelers alike are also welcome to explore at it’s surface.
No visit to a lush cave is complete without observations about its local residents. Turtles and freshwater tropical fish were plentiful and swam about us as we waded through. Inhabitants included mollies, tetras, gobies, cichlids, catfish and red eared sliders. Although they were mostly small, we were able to get up close and personal with these beautiful little creatures and I was very happy with our wildlife encounter! We found more concentrations of fish further in the depths of the cave but it also comes with diminishing visibility. If you are okay snorkeling in the dark then I would recommend checking it out for more aquatic creatures.
DOS OJOS MEANS TWO EYES
There is a reason for the naming – it indeed has two “eyes”! The cenote we entered is only the first of the two. The second can be accessed by swimming through the cave. Although not a long swim by any means, it is cavernous, deep and the air inside feels like a walk-in fridge. Don’t worry, a guide rope is provided so no one gets lost! Most guests tend to stay in the first cenote, so if you are looking for a quieter experience then head on over. If you are snorkeling, don’t be alarmed for divers to appear from the depths from seemingly nowhere. I don’t know why but my scaredy cat self got a little jumpy when a masked person floated of the dark from under me! Amazingly, these two cenotes are the entry points for a much larger and extensive cave system so there are many divers who visit daily. I can only imagine what is down there. That said, the cenote management treats diver safety quite seriously so it is best to stay out of their way especially entering and exiting the water, as they need space to handle their equipment.
PLANNING YOUR VISIT TO CENOTE DOS OJOS
What to Bring
You will want your typical swimming gear such as bathing suit and towel (although there aren’t any places to lounge by the water, more on that later). The cave bottoms are full of sharp rocks and stalagmites so I highly recommend some sort of foot protection like a pair of water shoes or flippers. Finally, to observe aquatic wildlife a pair of goggles or a snorkel mask would be a great addition. There is a booth to rent snorkel equipment and life vests if needed.
Note that sunscreen and bug spray is strongly discouraged in these areas. If you absolutely must then please ensure it is reef safe and 100% biodegradable. It helps preserve the delicate ecosystem in the cenote so this small action goes a long way!
Personal Storage
There are lockers available for a fee to store belongings while you are in the water. If you have vehicle access such as a tour van or personal rental car then consider leaving your things there, only bringing the essentials. We found it was fine leaving our towels and sandals by the handrails although it is at some risk any time belongings are left unattended. For valuables that need to come down to the cenote with you such as phones and cameras, consider a waterproof case.
Where Can We Relax?
As mentioned, there isn’t a place to lounge around the water. The boardwalk can get quite busy with divers and their equipment so if you are looking for a place to rest there is a picnic area above the cenote at ground level. We did all our drying and changing here after the swim. There are also food stands here to grab a snack.
HOW TO GET TO CENOTE DOS OJOS
Many people arrive here as part of a day tour but if you are on your own, the options would be as follows:
By Colectivo
These are shared vehicles that are part of the public transportation system. Although it sounds confusing at first, it is straightforward after the first few times. There is no set schedule and no set bus stop so assume they will pass by every few minutes. These vans can be taken heading south from Playa Del Carmen or north from Tulum. Simply stand at the roadside on Highway 307 and wave your arms out when a white van comes your way. A colectivo will be labeled as such and will stop to pick you up. Let the driver know you are going to “Parque Dos Ojos” and the driver will let you off at the right place.
Note with the colectivo option you will need to walk 2 km from the highway drop off to the cenote. It is a dirt road with little in the way of hospitality – wear comfortable footwear and avoid going in the midday as the sun can be very hot. There are other cenotes along this path which can make your trip worthwhile if cenote hopping is your thing.
Booking a Private Driver
To make the most of your day without the hassle, consider hiring a private driver who can take you to Cenote Dos Ojos, along with all the other exciting activities to be found nearby in the Tulum area. This is a great option for those traveling in a group as the split cost can make it more economical.
Taxi
Note that taxis may drop you off at the highway entrance without much instruction but you can request they bring you all the way to the cenote. There will be taxis available for hire at the picnic area once you are one swimming. Taxis tend to be more reasonable if staying in Tulum. For those coming from Playa Del Carmen, joining a day tour or going the private driver route may give you more bang for your buck.
Driving Your own Car
Look for Parque Dos Ojos at the midpoint between Akumal and Tulum along Highway 307.
Happy Travels!
