A long time ago on our first trip to Mexico we had heard of Coba as a less visited but equally fantastic option for seeing ruins. Because we love finding hidden gems, it immediately made it onto our Yucatan bucket list. It turned out to be quite a way out from the Mayan Riviera, so much that we decided to tackle it on a future trip and we did – this time with Baby E in tow. On our most recent visit, we chose between Coba, about an hour inland from Tulum, or Muyil, a closer but smaller site located just outside the Sian Kiaan Biosphere but we decided in the end to check Coba off our list once and for all. As with all checklists, once one thing is done another gets added so I guess we will just have to come back yet again to see Muyil 
GETTING THERE
The road from Tulum to Coba is fairly straightforward (quite literally) and passes through a number of small towns and villages where you can stop for food or shopping. We had a rental car and found it to be easy navigating road signage and intersections. The road itself is well maintained although we did notice the lack of street lighting so it is best to make this drive in the daytime – not a problem during the summer months but in the winter you may find yourself with less time. It does traverse through some dense jungle so when it is dark, it is dark.
One thing to note is that we passed by a fair few artisan workshops who hand weave their own macrame or rattan products. They are sprinkled among reseller stalls who carry all the usual souviners but looking a little more on the wholesale side. I am unsure whether the pricing is better than in town but they are certainly open for business and it is always interesting to see the backend of things.
As we had thought, the Coba ruins are not a super popular spot as tourists visiting the Mayan Riviera tend to be drawn to the impressively well preserved Chichen Itza or the incredibly scenic coastal fort of Tulum. Coba is also quite far for a day trip from Cancun or Playa Del Carmen so that may be another reason. Nonetheless, there were still plenty visitors but they are mostly the local kind like families or school groups.
As of the time of our visit the admission was $100 MXN per person and it is discounted for local residents. Parking was another $60 MXN. Being a low-key destination, there were no line ups and parking spots were plentiful. Take the chance at the entrance to stock up on any supplies such as snacks and drinks from the nearby shops if you need any. There are stands that sell refreshments inside the ruins but obviously it is at a premium.
ABOUT COBA
Coba is an ancient Mayan city located about 49 kilometres northwest of Tulum. The earliest traces of civilization date back to approximately 50 BC with the latest structures built as recently as 1500 AD – thats a long history for a mesoamerican city! Most of Coba’s architecture is Teotihuacan style, the same as Chichen Itza, confirming its strong ties with central Mexican cultures. An important feature of Coba are its many sacbe’ob (“white roads”). These are raised, paved roads constructed of limestone stucco which connect places of worship, city centers, groups of buildings and even long distances between cities. It is believed that some modern day infrastructure in what was Mayan territory such as highways and rail lines have used the remnants of sacbe’ob as the basis of it’s placement. It’s so neat to think that people today are still traversing the exact same paths as those of millennia before.
As with many ruins of ancient Mesoamerican cities, the excavated areas represent only a tiny fraction of the entire metropolis. The way the Coba site is laid out is with a group of buildings viewable just inside the entrance and then two larger, spread out groups separated by stretches of jungle. It was about a 15 minute hike for us to reach the further areas with some more walking between the two as well. There are bicycles or bike taxi services for hire if you would like to see the sights faster (more on this later). Those that arrive by tour have them included in their package. We decided to walk by foot and it didn’t feel terribly strenuous even while carrying Baby E (thank goodness for Osprey making this wonderful backpack that can haul everything comfortably) but it would be wise to bring lots of water and snacks because the heat and humidity can really get you.
If this is your first visit to a Mayan ruin, it may be worth it to get a guided tour to help interpret all the structures and buildings. There are information plaques explaining the gist of each area but there is just so much detail and the site being an ancient ruin (keyword ruin), many of the things we were looking at were piles of stones and the purpose or function of them not obvious at all.
GETTING AROUND
Once at the end of the first group of buildings (Grupo Coba), there will be a hut to rent bikes or hire a transportation for the trek up ahead. There were a lot of guys soliciting us as we approached with warnings of how long the walk is and that it would be very difficult but we found it was not nearly as severe as advertised. If you experience any mobility issues at all then I would definitely recommend it as it is not a short walk by any means. Even if you are able to walk it, if you are planning to hit up many other places that day then it would save a lot of time and energy. Renting a bike is $50 MXN and bike taxis are $150 MXN to take you to the further site and back (but account for a bit extra to tip your driver!).
We were told the wide paths connecting the buildings are the very sabe’ob that Coba is known for. They are weathered and eroded but every so often we encountered slabs of raised stone, remnants of ancient paved roads. Coba, at its peak, supported an estimated 50,000 inhabitants. Considering modern day Coba (built adjacent to the old city ruins) is home to less than 1,300 residents, it seems unreal that so many people had lived here and so long ago. All that has survived are the stone structures of temples and palaces; the hatched huts of ordinary Mayans have long been reclaimed by the earth. Apparently the city development spanned over 80 square kilometres which is sizable even by modern standards. We were in awe.
NAHOCH MUL
At the end of the path we arrive at Grupo Nahoch Mul. Previously known for hosting one of the very few Mayan temples in Mexico that are accessible to the top, it no longer permits visitors to use the steps. Having climbed the temples of Tikal on another trip and while breathtakingly scenic, it was also very high and steep, so I was happy to simply view this one from the ground 
Stelae can be found all over Coba. These are upright stone monuments containing information in the form of texts, images or both. They commemorate notable events or individuals and could be inscribed, carved or painted. Interestingly, many anxient civilizations have come to produce stelae for similar purposes and it is believed their use, however consistent among cultures, has developed independently. It is from the stelae we know that Coba had ruling queens several times in it’s long history, a position typically reserved for males.
Coba is definitely a great spot to spend a morning or afternoon. We enjoyed the low-key setting and the small amount of visitors made for a calm and quiet experience. It had none of the crowds like Tulum (although we totally understand the draw for Tulum; it is a very pretty place!) and did not have the famous landmark appeal of Tikal. I know that many used to come here just to climb the temple and while that isn’t available anymore, I still recommend visiting Coba if you find yourself at this end of the Mayan Riviera. It’s location in the jungle makes it a completely different experience than the larger sites that have been fully cleared of trees.
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
There are a few ways to get to the Coba ruins:
By Tour Group
This is by far the easiest option. Many tours operate out of Tulum, Playa Del Carmen or even Cancun and they can bring you directly to Coba as part of an overall day tour. Likely it will be part of a package that covers a few destinations in the area. The advantages of taking a tour is private transportation, as well as some perks such as an english speaking guide and the bike-taxi service likely being included in the package.
By Car
Whether you are driving from Cancun or Playa (or basically anywhere on the riviera), you will need to head south on Highway 307 until Tulum where you will make a right turn onto 109. At the third exit it passes the outskirts of Coba where you can enter the town proper through a roundabout. If you are already in Tulum then simply take the 109 and take the third exit.
By Collective/Bus
This is the least expensive but also the most time consuming option. If you are in no hurry and up for an adventure then this might be for you. Collectivos are the public transportation in Mexico and are a mode of transport for locals. The directions are similar to driving; if you are staying on the riviera between Playa and Tulum, stand on the southbound side of Highway 307 and wait for a white van. Waving your hand will help when you see one approaches. It should be clearly marked as a collectivo. Tell the driver that you’d like to go to Tulum. From Tulum, there is an ADO bus that passes through Coba although it is reported to be available for limited runs each day. As there the timetables are not available online on the website, it is best to show up at the ADO station in Tulum and ask at the counter in the days before you do this trip.
By Taxi
By far the most expensive option but also the easiest and flexible. Have your hotel arrange one or hail one from the road. Once at Coba they can be found at the parking lots of nearby restaurants for your return trip. Be sure to negotiate a price before getting in.
SEEING THE COBA RUINS WITH KIDS
Can you come here with kids? Yes, you can!
Our 18 month old baby sat in her baby carrier and had a blast singing songs and seeing the jungle from her high vantage point. I recommend closed toe shoes and sticking to the center of the paths as there were snakes and tarantulas, none of which mix too well with small curious people. I would also recommend the bike taxi service as the walk could be long for little legs although we did see plenty of children making the trek with their families. With lots of water, snacks, eco-conscious sunscreen and a hat they will have a great time.
Have you visited any ancient ruins lately? What was your experience?
Happy Travels!
