South of Tulum on the eastern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula is a large protected area called the Sian Ka’an Biosphere. Its name means “Origin of the Sky” in the Mayan language. Boasting wild beaches and dense jungle, it encompasses 120 kms of shoreline and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its diversity of habitats and intersection with the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef. There is only one access road and it meanders along the coast ending at a sleepy village called Punta Allen.
We really REALLY want to make the drive to Punta Allen one day (probably since two trips ago!) but due to its remote location it needs a few dedicated days – time we didn’t have. Although it is not on the menu for this trip, it didn’t stop us from driving in and seeing a little part of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere on a day trip. Call it a reconnaissance mission for next time if you will 
Note that we had our own rental car for the activities in this blog post, a Toyota Corolla to be exact. Alternatively, you can explore the Sian Ka’an using a tour operator. They will likely do a better job with transportation and organized excursions which I will expand on later in the post. For this day trip we were simply looking to poke around on our own with no expectations. I would have loved to set out first thing in the morning but something came up with Baby E and it became an afternoon excursion. Oh, life with a toddler!
ENTERING THE SIAN KA’AN BIOSPHERE
Driving to the entrance of Sian Ka’an is a relatively simple route. We took Hwy 15 from Tulum where it turned south through Zona Hotelera. At the very end of the hotels we came upon the Arco Maya, a large stone archway marking the official beginning of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere. We’re here!
Once on the other side of Arco Maya there is an administration building where you must stop and sign in with the gate keeper. There is an admission fee of $105 MXN per person (Baby E was free) and your car license and pax are recorded in their book. If you need the bathroom, go here because it will be a LONG time before there will be another one.
IS IT NECCESSARY TO DRIVE A 4X4?
Demystified on this day trip was the condition of Hwy 15. Much of the dirt road is in rough shape although a few sections look to be recently graded. Hopefully that means more improvements are on the way. On a dry day like we had, it was possible drive it with a regular sedan albeit at a snail’s pace. The holes in the ground are intense in some places. A few areas looked permanently flooded. While it appears feasible to drive all the way to Punta Allen in a regular car, I would take the neccessary precautions. Check with your car rental company whether this journey is permitted and what their insurace covers should anything happen.
All that being said, this is our own personal experience. The driving conditions ultimately depend on factors such as weather, driver’s ability and vehicle type. We did notice that vans and SUVs went a lot faster than us and the road was wide enough to let them pass. Mopeds and motorbikes seem to have the easiest time as they can avoid the potholes entirely without compromising speed.
UNTOUCHED BEACHES
If you were hoping to lounge around on a pristine beach, the Sian Ka’an Biosphere would likely be the wrong place. The shore was ladden with sargassum and sand fleas! Not ideal in the practical sense but we came to see the wilderness and we did. Alex and Baby E ran around for some time at the Playa Pública, picking up washed up corals. It was a little eerie being alone in such a remote place, the only other people being some fishermen in the distance working with netted bags. It felt like we were alone in the universe.
CHASING DAYLIGHT
I was so excited to see Boca Paila, our next planned stop. Unfortunately it started to get dark and we missed the entrance. Whomp whomp. With the dense tree cover we found ourselves turning back early as the road dimmed. There are no street lights here, so better safe than sorry. I thought coming here was slow but it was about to get even slower. Instead we were treated to a number of nocturnal animal crossings – tarantulas, crabs and coatis. All were interesting to observe and made our late timing more worthwhile. All in all, driving to Boca Paila and back from Tulum took around 5 hours. I’m not joking when I said it’s slow!
I would like to note that there is very little reception on this road. Some parts even had none. It is best to have your maps and information loaded onto your phone in case of any connection issues. Also important would be to pack plenty of food and water. We had a satellite device from Garmin for emergency communication in places such as these. Ours is mostly used in the Canadian backcountry but it also comes in handy on our travels.
VISITING THE SIAN KA’AN BIOSPHERE
Whether you want to see the Biosphere or drive all the way down to Punta Allen, it will surely be a great time with some careful planning. I say careful because the remoteness does add some complexity to the excursion. For land entry, it boils down to two options: Punta Allen/Hwy 15 as described in this post, or Muyil/Hwy 307. Muyil is technically not part of the Biosphere but it does connect with the northern tip of it and serves as a limited access point.
With a Car
The Punta Allen/Hwy 15 route:
Take Hwy 307 south from Cancun or Playa Del Carmen until Tulum, then take Hwy 15 southbound. Once past Arco Maya the road turns primitive and the bumpy ride begins. This road leads to Punta Allen with different stops along the Biosphere which you can get out and view.
The Muyil/Hwy 307 route:
For those wanting a more structured activity, simply stay on 307 southbound until the village of Chunyaxché where local boatmen offer tours from 8am-4pm for about $35-50 pp at Laguna Muyil (located past the Muyil ruins). The tours will take you to the edges of the Biosphere where you can float down the mangrove canals. For an even cheaper option, pay the entrance fee to see the Muyil ruins (about $2) and take the 500 meter boardwalk to the east side of the laguna where the boatmen offer the same tour for less than at the main entrance.
Without a Car
A good way to see the Sian Ka’an Biosphere without a car would be with a tour operator. They tend to be the pricier option but also the most convenient, given the limited ways of entry. There are many different activities to choose from and many combine the Biosphere visit with the Muyil ruins since they are in the same area.
For a truly DIY method, take the collectivo at the front of the ADO station in Tulum. The southbound Felipe Carrillo Puerto collectivo takes Hwy 307 and passes by Muyil ruins for around 40 pesos. Once getting off here you can explore the ruins and use the boardwalk to the lesser known east lagoon entrance. Unfortunately there is no longer a collectivo that services the Punta Allen/Hwy 15 route, nor would I recommend exploring that area without a car. If your heart is set on exploring the Hwy 15 and don’t have a vehicle, a tour operator or private driver would be your best bet.
By Boat
Another option would be to take a boat where it travels down the coast of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere. There are boats departing from both the Tulum area and at points on the road to Punta Allen, for those who don’t wish to drive the entire way. There are lots of opportunities for wildlife sightings with this option. The price can range depending on whether you are signing up for a full service tour, just a boat ride to Punta Allen and if you plan to stay overnight there. It is worth looking into if you prefer being out on the water.
Have you seen any remote places lately? Happy Travels 
