Do you like slow, leisurely travel? Love finding yourself in quiet, contemplative places? With just the right amount of relaxation and physical activity, this trip comes recommended to anyone looking for a unique and ocean-bound adventure in seldom seen locations on the Belize Barrier Reef.
Planning: We went with a company called Ruggamuffin Tours (now called Ragga Sailing Adventures) and it departs from the island of Caye Caulker, accessible via ferry from Belize City. Many head straight to the ferry dock by taxi from the airport. Try to arrive a few days before your trip so you get a chance to explore this laidback island. We reserved our spots well in advance of arriving although a few on our trip was able to join due to last minute openings.
* The following trip report is from November of 2016. A lot may have changed since then so check with Ragga Sailing Adventures for their up to date itinerary.
TRIP OVERVIEW
Tour Operator
Ragga Sailing Adventures
Duration
3 Days/2 Nights
Itinerary
1. Depart from Caye Caulker
2. Overnight on Rendezvous Caye
3. Overnight on Ragga Caye
4. Arrive in Dangriga
The day before departure: The crew and passengers were gathered at the office (by the Split) for a briefing. We went over the weather report, house rules, what to pack, then chose our fins and snorkels from their supply shack. And there must have been a brawl on board in the past because we got a stern talk about drinking responsibly and not punching each other out! That made for an amusing ice breaker among the passengers and we quickly got acquainted with each other (spoiler: nobody got punched on our trip).
DAY ONE
Reef Swimming and Island Camping
The first day was a long one to Rendezvous Caye. We made three stops to snorkel, all of which were amazing. The crew was so great making sure it was fun for all experience levels. We saw turtles, corals, puffers, manta rays – the whole case of Finding Nemo! If you’re into it, this is a great place to test your free diving skills.
For lunch the chef whipped up a delicious classic: chicken stew with rice, a Belizean staple. The catamaran had a very small kitchenette and we continued to be impressed the entire trip with the quality of the food being made there. Apart from the excellent meals, there were always snacks and drinks available to keep us energized for the next swim.
SOAKING UP THE SUN
Little did we know that today was going to be the only sunny day on the trip (whomp, whomp) but fortunately we all worked hard on our tans and maybe a bit more. With us were 4 crew members and 11 other passengers with a good mix of ages and backgrounds. In total, there were 17 people on board. Everyone was so friendly and easy to hang out with. If you are worried about being stuck with others in tight quarters, fear not, as there are so many nooks and crannies on this boat you will not have trouble finding one that is just right.
The ocean is abundant on the barrier reef. Our catch of the day ended up being a grouper big enough to feed the whole boat – literally. Some passengers tried their hand at spearfishing and the chef was happy to cook up their catches. This ocean to table lifestyle was so foreign to me, having lived in Ontario all my life which is nowhere close to the sea.
Arriving at Rendezvous Caye was a bit like magic. We saw the island appear in the horizon and it was just so tiny. Despite the punitive size, it had a surprising amount of facilities – outhouses, picnic areas and a rainwater reservoir for washing up. The palapas made the setting idyllic. We were told that sometimes this island is used as a lunch spot by day trippers but we are the only group that ever stays overnight. Once disembarked, we quickly found out why no one stays here: there is nowhere to sleep.
NIGHTFALL AT CAMP
We got busy making shelter for the night. Raggamuffin provides all the equipment; sleeping bags, sleeping mats and tents. As giant stingrays glided gracefully just feet from the water’s edge, it felt strangely spooky to be on this little lump of sand in the middle of the ocean.
Dinner was fresh and tasty seafood all prepared onsite by none other than the boat chef. We might as well be at an all-inclusive resort, but without the resort! Haha. As we cleaned up afterwards, the scenery took on a dreamy hue. I could not put my camera down all evening because the sunset was so gorgeously stunning.
Over drinks and snacks, the crew told us stories about the Mayans and their celestial endeavors. Their study of the stars and planets, the creation of their calendar and construction of the ancient buildings that worshipped them. The day ended in a soft, fiery blaze and darkened into a night sky peppered with twinkling stars. This was my queue to pass out in the tent, well fed and tired, but from what I heard it was pretty fun staying up too!
DAY TWO
Navigating Rough Waters + Overwater Cabanas
The next day was cloudy and all the sunburned folks got a break. We got up early to tear down our campsites and ate some breakfast. Later we learn that there was a hurricane headed in our direction and the tour that was supposed to run after ours was cancelled in anticipation of inclement weather. I’m guessing we had enough time to finish ours before it hit (and I’m writing about it so I did, indeed, survive). Nonetheless, it was turning out to be quite the opposite from yesterday with everyone trading their sunglasses for rain jackets.
HAPPINESS COMES IN WAVES
Snorkeling was made even more interesting today by choppy water. Be sure to pop that Gravol during breakfast because you never know when the weather will turn and poor weather means a rocky boat. My limbs were so tired at the end of every swim because it took so much to power through those waves. In between reef locations, we took turns at the steering wheel. Whether we did anything to help the crew was anybody’s guess (probably not) but it sure felt cool sitting in the captain’s seat!
On the itinerary today was Tobacco Caye, a quaint little island community right on the barrier reef. With a population of just 25, they are host to cozy little overwater cabanas and a number of resident pets. After a warm welcome by the dog pack, we set off to explore. Like our day on the boat so far, it has also been raining here and we found the island to be quiet and sleepy.
AN ORDINARY DAY ON TOBACCO CAYE
It was fairly uneventful during our visit; just the villagers tending to their guesthouses and other types of maintenance work. It was day to day life, as much as it can be during the wet season. While we took a walk around, some of the passengers grabbed beers at the Sunset Bar and chatted with the locals.
GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO BAIT
Soon we said goodbye to this little slice of heaven and set sail again.
As nothing had been caught on our fishing line so far today, our boat ventured beyond the shallows of the reef to try our luck in the deep open water. And oh boy, what an intense experience! Out here the waves swelled even higher and lower and everybody hunkered down for a bumpy ride. Raining as it was, we passed the time with card games in the cabin. A few brave souls weathered it out on the deck minding the fishing line. I will make another case for Gravol here. After much excitement (and seasickness), our catch of the day was a meter-long barracuda.
In good spirits, we head back into the safety of the reef and arrive at our stop for the night. Although yet another island, it was a special one. It’s name is Ragga Caye and it is owned by Raggamuffin themselves. It’s looks like we’re on our own private island!
Seasick and drenched from the day’s rain, we got busy unloading our stuff, happy to be back on land. Tonight’s accommodations were in the form of cheerful overwater bungalows. The best part – they were dorm style so we got to choose bunkmates! If you prefer something more private, there are single room bungalows available for a little extra cost. Just let them know in advance so it can be reserved for you.
ENJOYING THE ABUNDANCE ON RAGGA CAYE
Everything on this island had a rickety, castaway vibe. Ironically, it was also serviced by a surprisingly good internet connection in the dining bungalow. The boat chef outdid himself again by making jerk barracuda, a combination of foods I did not know existed and was so good that I still think about it from time to time. Barracuda, it turns out, is quite a “meaty” fish. Kind of like a chewy steak but it’s a fish. Weird combo I know but it was good! Also on the menu tonight were fresh lobsters and ceviche.
With such stormy skies we sadly did not have much of a sunset after dinner but instead had drinks and played games before heading off to our bunks. It felt like summer camp, only it was adults.
DAY THREE
Seabirds, A bit of Sun + Arrival at Dangriga
We woke up to find our towels and clothes still wet even though they hung all night in the sea breeze. It was overcast again and while thankfully not as wet, it was a lot more windy. The hurricane certainly looks to be on it’s way here.
CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE
It was the final day of our sail. We had the choice of birdwatching at a nearby location or to stay back on the island and relax. Having seen enough fish to last a lifetime, I hopped eagerly on board with my binoculars. There was a welcome break in the sky just as we arrived a short sail away at a group of trees that were growing out of the ocean, home to a colony of frigatebirds.
These are large elegant sea birds whose wings can span over 7 feet across. Being aerial, they often spend the night in the air. We watched them dive for fish and squid (sorry no fries here) and like a lot of sea birds, they were extremely noisy. They hunt in conjunction with predatory fish, who chase their prey to the surface in order to trap them and that is when the frigatebirds swoop in for their meal. So cool!
Heading back, it felt like heaven when the sun finally made an appearance. We docked and packed up quickly at our cabanas, spending our remaining time relaxing (and trying to dry off) in the hammocks. Bringing us to the mainland was not the catamaran but a chartered speedboat, so here we said a heartfelt goodbye to the Raggamuffin crew who would stay back at Ragga Caye to prepare for the journey back to HQ.
From Dangriga where we were dropped off, some of us were headed to Placencia, some to the airport or even back to Caye Caulker. We were headed inland to the lush jungle town of San Ignacio, joined by a few other passengers who were also going that way.
THOUGHTS
I cannot say enough good things about this excursion. Raggamuffin did such a good job taking care of everyone. Service was top notch – from booking, to preboarding preparations to the actual trip. I had an amazing time and thought it was worth every penny.
It would be good to note that the excursion is not luxury by any means. The reefs are only accessible by swimming a distance from the catamaran, the islands are remote and you will be at the mercy of the elements. While the tour is full service, it is also a wholly outdoor experience where facilities are basic at best. If all that sounds like your cup of tea then this trip might be for you!
Happy Sailing!
