In the heart of the Guatemalan jungle lies one of the most iconic archaeological sites of the ancient Maya civilization – Tikal. Shrouded in the lush canopy of the rainforest, Tikal’s towering temples and enigmatic ruins continue to captivate the imagination of adventurers, history enthusiasts, and explorers alike. Join us on a day trip to this old abandoned city as we uncover the secrets and marvels of Tikal, a place where the past whispers through the ancient stones.
First things first – how did we end up in Guatemala? We were supposed to be honeymooning in Belize! If you had tuned in to our other posts on this trip, you would know all about Hurricane Otto and the wet and rainy wrench its thrown in our itinerary. Our tour company in San Ignacio felt so bad for turning us away the third day in a row (we were hoping to visit the ATM Cave but it had flooded due to the hurricane) that they offered us a ride to Guatemala for the day. We didn’t think twice about it. So here our adventure starts – with us heading to drier pastures.
BELIZE TO GUATEMALA: CROSSING THE BORDER
The Belize-Guatemalan border has historically been a conflicted zone. Although highly militarized on both sides, for civilians just passing through it is your standard immigration procedure just with the presence of armed guards wielding large machine guns. It looks rather alarming but they are there for our safety!
On the Belize side it is organized with an immigration building and booths to line up to see an officer to process your passport. To depart there is a an exit fee of BZ$40 per person, payable every time you leave the country through a land border (airport exit fee is a different amount). Be sure to have enough cash to cover each person in your party.
Once past Belize immigration there is short road through no man’s land until the Guatemala immigration. It is less developed on this side of the border with notably more military presence. It is also more chaotic here, and a guy who met our van, presumably a Guatemalan affiliate of our driver, escorted us to the makeshift line up for immigration. There he took our passports (sketchy much??) and came back with an officer who led us through another more quiet entry point. Weirded out at the thought of having skipped the line, our passports were then handed back stamped. I guess we’ll take what we can get!
TIKAL NATIONAL PARK
Tikal is located in the Guatemalan province of Peten. In 1979, it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although still affected by the hurricane, the rain was a mere drizzle and completely manageable compared to the stormy weather in Belize. Oh, the relief of being able to stand outside without looking like a drowned rat!
Once our driver dropped us off, we headed down the path at the entrance. There is a fee to enter the park but ours was included with our ride – if you are arriving with a tour operating it is wise to check with them if it is also included with your transportation. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and lots of water as Tikal is a very large site and the walk between buildings and plazas can be considered a small trek to some.
A LITTLE BIT ABOUT TIKAL
Tikal’s history dates back over two millennia, with its roots reaching into the Preclassic period around 600 BC. However, it was during the Classic period, from approximately 250 to 900 AD, that Tikal reached its height as a major political and cultural hub of the Maya world. It was home to a thriving civilization, with an estimated population of tens of thousands of people.
One of the defining features of Tikal is its architecture. The city is adorned with towering pyramids, elaborate temples, royal palaces, and grand plazas. These structures, often built for ceremonial and religious purposes, continue to stand as a testament to the advanced engineering and architectural prowess of the Maya civilization.
One of the things we appreciated about Tikal is that it allowed visitors to get right up and personal with the ruins. No barriers here; we could touch, climb and experience the city as it’s inhabitants did so many years ago.
Here are some of the notable structures we saw:
Templo I (The Temple of the Great Jaguar): Rising 47 meters above the forest floor, Templo I is one of Tikal’s most iconic structures. This temple-pyramid was dedicated to the Maya ruler Jasaw Chan K’awil I and it is said that here lies his final resting place.
Templo II (The Temple of the Masks): Adjacent to Temple I, this pyramid houses a tomb that we were told may belong to a queen or another prominent figure. It sports stucco masks, hence its name.
Templo IV (The Double-Headed Serpent Temple): The tallest structure at Tikal, Temple IV provides panoramic views of the surrounding jungle. It’s believed to have served as a funerary monument for Tikal’s rulers.
A popular excursion at Tikal is to climb the pyramids in the darkness of night and watch the sun rise over Templo IV. Our van arrived in the late morning so we didn’t get to do that but it sure sounds amazing! Nevertheless we made the climb in daylight. The pyramid is so steep they built a staircase beside it for easier access. It is not a super tough ascent by any means but in the sun and heat it is best to take it slow and have frequent breaks.
The view from up top was stunning and I’m sad we didn’t get more photos! There wasn’t much room to stand safely so be prepared to take all your pictures sitting down at the top of the temple steps. If you think this view looks familiar you are right. Tikal was the filming location for Yavin 4 in Star Wars. It is unsurprising that the lore and mystique of an ancient city would lend itself well to an otherworldly setting.
Back on the ground, we came across a ceremony in the plaza, attended by local visitors. In the background, the much talked about ocellated turkey made an appearance. Its iridescent feathers glimmered in the sun and it’s blue head looked rather alien! What a beautiful bird.
At this point it was time to head back to the van and we took the exit trail. The obligatory gift shops were found at the end. Here you can pick up adorable little pyramid magnets or earrings or sample some famous Guatemalan coffee. No ancient city visit is complete without the site model so here you can view that as well. It was humbling to find out that we had only seen a tiny fraction of the city; most buildings laid unexcavated and were not part of the showcased portions of the site.
WILDLIFE AT TIKAL
Being that it is the middle of the jungle, your visit will most likely be full of wildlife sightings. In addition to the ocellated turkeys, we also came across a group of curious coatis and a number of toucans. We heard the howler monkeys more than we saw them – they sound like screeching dinosaurs and it wasn’t one bit surprising to hear they were sampled for the sound effects in Jurassic Park. If you are an enthusiast, a pair of binoculars will come in very useful in your day pack!
HOW TO GET TO TIKAL
Getting here involves some travel planning, as it is in a relatively remote location. Most routes rely on arriving first in Flores. Here are the typical ways to reach Tikal:
From Guatemala City:
- If you’re coming from Guatemala City, you can book a domestic flight to Mundo Maya International Airport. Several airlines operate flights to Flores, and the flight takes around 45 minutes.
From Belize (we took this route):
- If you’re coming from Belize, you can take a bus or shuttle to the Belize-Guatemala border. After crossing the border into Guatemala, you can continue your journey to Tikal by bus or shuttle. Alternatively, you can take a flight from Belize City to Flores.
From Other Guatemalan Cities:
- If you’re traveling from other Guatemalan cities, you can take a bus to Flores. The bus journey may take several hours, depending on your departure location. There are both regular and deluxe bus services available.
From Tikal Town (Flores):
- Once you arrive at Flores, you can take a taxi or shuttle to the town of Tikal, which is situated near the archaeological site. Flores is a popular base for tourists visiting Tikal, and it offers various accommodations, restaurants, and services.
Remember to check the latest travel information, including bus schedules and border crossing requirements, as these can change over time. Also, consider the time of year and weather conditions when planning your visit, as some routes may be affected by seasonal factors like rain (like how we got caught in a hurricane 
).
Packing Tips: Don’t forget to bring more water and snacks than you need, wear comfortable footwear and have some form of sun protection such as an environmentally friendly sunscreen or a hat. Bug spray will also come in handy in the dense jungle if you are particularly susceptible. For you nature junkies, a pair of binoculars and a Central American wildlife field guide may be useful.
While reaching Tikal may require some effort due to its remote location, we thought it was very much worth the trek and perhaps was one of the the most memorable of Mayan ruins we have visited. We hope you get to see it too!
Happy Travels!
[…] in Mexico that are accessible to the top, it no longer permits visitors to use the steps. Having climbed the temples of Tikal on another trip and while breathtakingly scenic, it was also very high and steep, so I was happy to simply view […]